The crisp autumn air of Hokkaido enveloped us as we arrived in Sapporo. Gathering at the hotel, we buzzed with excitement as we checked in for our upcoming adventure. After savoring our first taste of Japan’s culinary delights, we set out for the Sapporo Beer Museum. A testament to the region’s prehistoric past, its entrance was guarded by towering skeletons of a mammoth and a Naumann’s elephant.

We then drove to Otaru, stopping briefly at a chocolate factory shop before boarding stately ‘Le Soléal.’ Greeted by our Captain’s welcoming handshake, we settled into our floating haven for the next 12 days. As we set sail, the twinkling lights of Otaru’s harbor, visible from every restaurant deck, painted the night sky.

Our journey through Japan began in the quaint port city of Otaru, where ‘Le Soleal’ docked for the night. A group of us explored the historic, elegant Aoyama Villa, a beautifully preserved mansion dating back to the prosperous herring fishing era. As we wandered through the intricately decorated rooms, admiring the exquisite woodwork and lacquerware, we took in views of the surrounding gardens through original hand-blown glass windows.

Our next stop was a sake distillery in Otaru, where we learned the art of sake brewing. From the careful selection of premium rice to the delicate fermentation process, we gained a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship behind this beloved beverage. A tasting session followed, showcasing the diverse flavors of various sakes and highlighting the artistry that goes into each unique creation. We then took in panoramas from the observation deck, perched high above the sea, marveling at the lighthouse, rugged coastline and occasional glimpse of playful sea lions. Enhancing the experience, our guide serenaded us with a traditional herring sailors’ work song.

We spent the remainder of the afternoon along the charming Otaru Canal, strolling its picturesque banks lined with historic warehouses. The once-industrial buildings were transformed into quaint shops and inviting cafes, their reflections shimmering in the tranquil waters.

Some of us ventured back to Sapporo to explore its bustling seafood markets. After partaking in a self-grilled barbecue feast and sampling local brews at the Sapporo Beer Garden, we paid a serene visit to Hokkaido Shrine, which enshrines four kami, including the soul of Emperor Meiji.

At the harbor, our memorable send-off was a traditional Kagami Biraki ceremony. Accompanied by a taiko drum band, the festive event involved opening a sake barrel, followed by a tasting. As ‘Le Soleal’ departed the harbor, our photography coach lent valuable insight, inspiring us to capture the beauty of our upcoming journey. The evening culminated in a Captain’s welcome cocktail party, where we met our friendly, professional crew.

As our ship glided southward, sheltered by Hokkaido, the day began with a soothing, well-attended yoga session. Our resident botanist then talked about Japanese gardens, highlighting the unique design principles that set them apart from their Western counterparts. Drawing parallels to calligraphy, he explained how Japanese gardeners masterfully employ positive and negative space, infusing their creations with symbolic meaning that’s often rooted in religious belief.

As ‘Le Soleal ‘navigated the turbulent Tsugaru Strait, losing the protection of the land, we learned of impending strong winds. Despite the rough seas, the ship’s advanced stabilization system ensured a smooth journey, so we fully enjoyed a lecture on Japanese culture and religion.

The afternoon brought a delightful change of pace as our local guides led a hands-on origami workshop. Laughter filled the lounge as we created colorful paper cranes, roses and frogs. Our art historian concluded the day with a discussion on Japanese art prints, with insight into the lives of geishas during the samurai era.

As the sun set, we eagerly anticipated tomorrow’s adventures on Sado Island.