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Trip Logs

Italy Cruise: Hidden Treasures from Florence to Venice Trip Log: September 13–24, 2024

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Trip Logs

Italy Cruise: Hidden Treasures from Florence to Venice Trip Log: September 13–24, 2024

Photography by Jacqueline Deely | September 16, 2024

September 13, 2024 | Florence, Italy

The anticipation for our Florentine adventures was palpable as we gathered for a welcome reception at the St. Regis. After time to settle in or explore, our charismatic Expedition Leader introduced us to the team who would guide us through this historic city.

The evening was ours to enjoy the city, whether through dinner or a stroll.

September 14, 2024 | Florence

The crisp morning air was quickly replaced by a warm, sun-drenched glow, casting a golden hue over the city. Our day began with a visit to historic San Miniato al Monte, where we were greeted by a panorama of Florence.

A surprisingly brisk morning rapidly gave way to another sunny day that began with a visit to the monastic Church of San Miniato. Our onward stroll along the fortified walls — a testament to Michelangelo’s genius — led us to a charming café, where we savored freshly baked croissants and a cup of espresso.

Stepping back into the sunlit Piazza Ognissanti, we set out into the heart of Florence, with opportunities to explore its military might, artistic prowess and connection to the world of high fashion. As we passed the awe-inspiring Duomo and its baptistery in the Piazza San Giovanni, we visited the Opera del Duomo Museum. After a hearty, well-earned lunch, we ventured into the Piazza della Signoria, learning its history and observing its statues. Crossing the Ponte Vecchio, we then wandered through the spirited Oltrarno neighborhood, pausing for gelato.

Those who began in Florence’s historic center toured the 13th-century Palazzo Vecchio, which served as both government offices and the home of the powerful Medici family. We then visited the Palazzo Medici Riccardi, seeing where Cosimo the Elder and Lorenzo the Magnificent lived. We also passed iconic buildings like the Ferragamo workshop and the restored Piazza della Repubblica as our guides shared fascinating insights into the city’s history and culture. After lunch at a historic restaurant, we spent the afternoon exploring at leisure.

Meanwhile, art enthusiasts headed to the Uffizi Gallery to admire masterpieces by Botticelli, Da Vinci and Caravaggio. From there, we visited the Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze — Europe’s first fine art school, founded in 1563. We stood in awe of Michelangelo’s iconic David before viewing unfinished sculptures, paintings, casts and musical instruments. Capping the day, we sat down to a family-style lunch.

Our free evening was free to explore the bustling pop-up market in the piazza; browse the charming shops that stayed open late; or discover a hidden gem of a restaurant before packing for tomorrow’s early departure.

September 15, 2024 | Lucca

The morning began with a scenic bus ride to Lucca, winding through rolling hills dotted with charming villages, olive groves and vineyards bathed in autumn’s golden hues. Our guided walk through Lucca’s labyrinthine streets led us to iconic squares like the Piazza dell’ Anfiteatro, where history and charm intertwined. After a classic Italian meal, we arrived at the Port of Livorno, where ‘Le Bougainville’ awaited.

Before setting sail, some of us ventured to the Savini Tartufi, where learned the history and biology of the elusive fungi. We then embarked on a guided truffle-hunting adventure alongside skilled hounds. Although we didn’t unearth prized white truffles, we did locate a few delicious black truffles. After an egg pasta-making demonstration, we indulged in a lavish, truffle-infused feast, paired with wine from a neighboring vineyard. A tartufaio (truffle hunter) brought in three large white truffles — the first of the season — allowing us to compare their flavors.

For many, it was hard to resist a jaunt to Pisa, known for its Leaning Tower and impressive cathedral. Given the bell tower’s famous tilt, we took photos of ourselves “propping it up.”

After boarding the ship, settling into our cabins and exploring our floating home, we met our talented team and learned about our upcoming adventures in the Eternal City.

September 16, 2024 | Rome

The city of Rome unfolded before us like a living canvas, its ancient buildings bathed in the warm Mediterranean sun. As we fanned out from our berth in Civitavecchia, our local guides provided a fascinating overview of the city’s history and architecture.

A group of us took a panoramic city tour, seeing the Colosseum, the Forum, Capitol Hill and the Spanish Stairs. After a pasta lunch paired with wine, we proceeded to Vatican City. We viewed some of the well-known masterpieces, antiques, the stunning Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica.

Others began the day at the Colosseum, standing in awe before the massive, imposing structure — the largest amphitheater ever built. Continuing onward, we wandered through the charming cobblestone streets in the Trastevere neighborhood. After visiting the mosaic-filled Church of Santa Maria, we drove by the Tiber River, glimpsing Castel Sant’Angelo (the Mausoleum of Hadrian), a towering rotunda in Parco Adriano.

Those preferring a more laidback day cruised through the countryside to the quaint medieval village of Anguillara Sabazia. Nestled on the shores of Lake Bracciano, it appeared in the sitcom Everybody Loves Raymond. After exploring the local market, we sampled coffee and gelato. We then saw the fairytale-like Orsini-Odescalchi Castle, with its moat and towers crowned with crenellations. Originally built for defense, it later served as a residence for noble families. After exploring its kitchen, armory, arsenal, myriad residential rooms and hidden garden, we enjoyed a local lunch before returning to the port.

Still others embarked on a scenic drive, arriving at the Papal Palace of Castel Gandolfo. Having explored the meticulously landscaped gardens, we were granted a rare glimpse into the Pope’s private world as we toured his chambers. From there, we proceeded to Cantine Santa Benedetta, the oldest winery of the Castelli Romani, where we indulged in a wine tasting. A cooking class followed, revealing the art of handmade pasta. Our delicious lunch — which incorporated products from the winery — featured the dishes we helped to prepare.

Back aboard our ship, we set sail for Corsica, attending our Captain’s festive welcome reception and dinner. A few hardy souls then enjoyed a nightcap in the underwater lounge, a window into the marine world below.

September 17, 2024 | Corsica, France

After disembarking in picturesque Bonifacio, we hopped aboard a train. Arriving at the island’s pinnacle, we meandered through the narrow streets and toured the citadel. After a short shop at a café for local delicacies, we visited the intricate, 16th-century Saint Roch Chapel; admired the architectural details of Les Terrasses d’Aragon and the Église Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Bonifacio; and appreciated views of limestone cliffs. Boarding the train once again, we returned to the lively marina level for a lunch of carpaccio, locally caught fish and pavlova.

Others boarded the train to reach the citadel. From there, we explored the labyrinth of narrow, cobblestone streets, surprised by vertical entrances to businesses and homes. After viewing the Église Sainte-Croix (Church of the Holy Cross), Église St. Jean Baptiste and the massive main gate to the upper city, we made our way to a cozy restaurant to sample local wine, charcuterie, cheese and chestnut cake — a Corsican delicacy. After the respite, we continued to view commemorations on residences. These included Spanish Emperor Charles V (1541) and Napoleon Bonaparte (1781). We ended the day exploring Église Sainte-Marie-Majeure de Bonifacio.

Some of us were more in the mood for a rural experience and instead drove along the coast to a local winery. Invited into the fermenting area, the winemaker detailed the winemaking process before bringing us to the vineyard. After a wine lunch of veal stew with olives, we returned to the harbor.

Meanwhile, our adventure-seekers hiked through the Corsican maquis, a unique ecosystem of short, thorny shrubland, punctuated by wildflowers and fragrant herbs. Along the way, our guide discussed the region’s wildlife, history and culture. As we descended from the hills, we stopped by a local bakery for coffee, pastries and cakes.

Back aboard ‘Le Bougainville,’ our photo coach shared tips and techniques for smartphone photography — a fitting end to a fascinating day.

September 18, 2024 | Cagliari

Arriving in Cagliari, some of us ventured to the modern Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Cagliari to explore the fascinating artifacts and sculptures of the Nuragic people, a Bronze Age civilization unique to Sardinia and known for their megalithic structures, colossal “giant” sculptures and intricate bronze statuettes. Making our way to Convento San Giuseppe, we were then warmly greeted by local musicians and dancers in traditional Sardinian attire.

Meanwhile, those who participated in a cooking lesson prepared and enjoyed authentic pasta, traditional sweets and other local dishes made entirely with Sardinian ingredients. We then took a short stroll through the city center, pausing to indulge in gelato or go souvenir shopping.

Since Sardinia is known for its exceptional wines, several of us were eager to experience the region’s viniculture. After taking in breathtaking views from Monte Urpino, we continued to a local, family-owned vineyard, where three generations of winemakers have honed their craft. We sampled an array of white and red varietals, paired with pecorino cheese.

Others wanted to view flamingos, taking a scenic coastal drive to Parco Naturale Molentargius-Saline. There, we rented electric bikes and embarked on a guided tour with a local expert. We were greeted by a stunning array of wildlife — vibrant pink flamingos, graceful coots and a majestic grey heron. We also spotted various fish and aquatic plants in the crystal-clear waters. Continuing our bike ride, we explored the remnants of the Conti Vecchi Salt Flats, a historical landmark once crucial to the region’s economy. After a leisurely pedal, we paused for a well-deserved coffee break with panoramic beach views.

Back aboard ‘Le Bougainville,’ we turned toward Messina, eagerly anticipating our adventures ahead. Complementing the day’s birdwatching experience, we gathered for a fascinating talk from our history, heritage and wildlife expert on Mediterranean bird migration and conservation. Following a tea break, we learned the rich history of Italian opera. Capping the enriching day, we sampled exquisite Iberian Pata Negra and exchanged excitement about tomorrow’s arrival in Sicily.

September 19, 2024 | Messina, Sicily

After a tranquil morning at sea, we gathered for a presentation on pizza-making. Cruising onward between Lipari and Vulcano, we took in breathtaking vistas from the observation decks. A testament to its fiery nature, Vulcano’s smoldering fumaroles billowed smoke.

We next attended a talk on the life and work of composer Vincenzo Bellini. As we sailed through the Straits of Messina during lunch, the ancient city of Messina came into view, its historic landmarks rising from the coastline.

Disembarking, the thrill-seekers among us hopped into four-wheel drive vehicles, ascending Mount Etna — Europe’s largest volcano, which is still active. Towering over 11,000 feet with its summit out of reach, even at 6,000 feet, the temperature plummeted. The volcano’s gray and black craters offered a stark contrast to the surrounding lush pine forests, scarred by ancient lava flows.

Those eager to explore Italian wines visited Sicilian winery La Casematte, perched 1,640 feet above sea level in the picturesque Messina countryside. It owes its name to the two World War II bunkers within its vineyards. Known for reviving Faro Doc, a historic local wine, the vineyard produces an impressive 60,000 bottles annually, exporting them worldwide. Our tasting featured five vintages: a crisp white, a delicate rosé and three robust reds. Accompanied by local delicacies, the spread threatened to spoil our appetites for dinner.

The rest of us ventured uphill to Cristo Re, a hilltop vantage point with views of Messina and beyond. The city has undergone significant reconstruction despite having suffered an earthquake early in the 20th century and heavy bombings during World War II. We visited the Regional Museum of Messina, seeing its remarkable collection of ancient art, including masterpieces by Antonello da Messina and Caravaggio. After a cannoli break, we proceeded to Duomo Square to explore the Norman Cathedral, where we saw an intricate figure on the clock tower move, marking the quarter hour. Tiptoeing through the cathedral’s interior, we observed a service before discreetly slipping out and making our way back to ‘Le Bougainville.’

September 20, 2024 | At Sea En Route to Bari

On this rainy day at sea, we attended a discussion on great travel photography, followed by a talk on the life and times of Raphael. Those seeking tranquility then attended a relaxation class. At teatime, we all gathered for crepes.

Capping the day’s enrichment, we explored Bari’s pivotal role during World War II and its unexpected connection to the development of chemotherapy.

Following a lively game of Name that Tune during the cocktail hour, we recapped the day’s events and prepared for tomorrow’s tours. As a special treat, we then watched a performance of Leonardo, an insightful look into da Vinci’s art.

September 21, 2024 | Bari, Puglia

Early this morning, some of us embarked on a leisurely trip to picturesque Alta Murgia National Park. As Puglia’s landscape unfolded before us, we saw groves of olive and fig trees and countless farmhouses with vineyards producing Puglian wine. The panoramic views of the Castel del Monte valley, a bit further up the slope, were breathtaking. Ending the day, we enjoyed a spread of traditional Italian fare.

Others among us visited 13th-century Castel del Monte, a majestic fortress perched 1,770 feet above sea level. Believed to have been commissioned by King Frederick II, the UNESCO World Heritage Site features an octagonal design with eight octagonal towers.

After exploring the castle’s intricate details, we continued through the Puglian countryside, passing vineyards and groves of olive and berry trees.

Those who explored the ancient city of Matera — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — enjoyed a scenic drive through fertile farmland en route. Nestled in the Basilicata region, its Sassi district is a complex of cave dwellings carved into the mountainside. We visited a traditional house and church before strolling through the new town, admiring Baroque churches and beautiful buildings and sampling pastry from a local pasticceria.

The rest of us proceeded to one of Bari’s oldest eateries, with a panoramic tour of city landmarks along the way. Arriving at our destination, we donned aprons and chef’s toques, preparing orecchiette pasta and watching a fresh mozzarella demonstration. Our culinary adventure included a variety of pasta dishes, tapas-style appetizers, orecchiette served in different sauces, cold-smoked meats and bread paired with exceptional wines.

Back aboard, we set sail in the early afternoon, accompanied by a presentation on Venetian music.

September 22, 2024 | Urbino

Arriving at dawn, we watched the sun rise over hilltop Cattedrale di San Ciriaco. Departing the pier, we intersected lush countryside and travelled along the coast to Urbino, its center a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Given the early hour, we explored the heavily fortified, Renaissance-style Palazzo Ducale without crowds, seeing Duke Federico’s quarters, his study and the grand ballroom. The gallery-like palace housed an extensive collection of works, including tapestries, the Portrait of a Young Woman by Raphael and Van Wassenhove’s Institution of Eucharist. From there, we walked through the adjacent Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta before stopping at a coffee shop in Piazza della Repubblica.

Others instead headed to a charming mountain town with a panoramic view of Jesi, a commune in the province of Ancona. Known for its artistic and architectural treasures, it’s no surprise that both Frederick II and Giovanni Battista Pergolesi were born here. Considering the region’s renowned Verdicchio wines, we visited one of Le Marche’s oldest wineries for an in-depth taste. Nestled amidst rolling hills with panoramic sea views, olive trees are also cultivated here, producing high-quality extra virgin olive oil. The villa itself, built in the 19th century, boasts beautiful gardens we strolled through.

The remainder of us ventured north to privately owned Villa Imperiale, an opulent mansion tied to powerful 15th and 16th-century families, such as the Sforza and Della Rovere. While the owner maintains private apartments, the richly painted rooms and formal gardens are open to the public. Like their ancestors, the current family supports the arts and frequently hosts installations, concerts and performances. After our tour, we adjourned to the nearby town of Pesaro for refreshments. As it was the first sunny day in fifteen days, the cafes, beaches and Liberty Square were bustling with activity.

To allow time for our final dinner ashore tomorrow, our Captain hosted a farewell reception this evening. During the event, he introduced us to the dedicated crew members who contributed to the ship’s smooth operation. Before retiring for the night, our talented onboard team shared a song and dance performance.


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