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Trip Logs

European Coastal Cruise: France, Spain & Portugal Trip Log: September 21–30, 2024

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Trip Logs

European Coastal Cruise: France, Spain & Portugal Trip Log: September 21–30, 2024

Photography by Renato Granieri | September 23, 2024

September 21, 2024 | London, England

This morning, we convened in bustling London to meet our fellow adventurers before embarking on a scenic journey to Dover, where ‘Le Dumont d’Urville’ awaited us.

As our ship glided through the water en route to France, we were warmly welcomed by our Captain and Expedition Team, had time to settle in and acquainted ourselves with the adventure ahead. Later, the excitement was palpable as we gathered for a cocktail party and welcome dinner.

September 22, 2024 | Honfleur, Franc

We arrived in France, docking in the industrial port of Honfleur. Little did we know what a charming town it was. We wandered through cobbled streets lined with historic buildings, inspired by the same scenes that captivated Impressionist artists like Gustave Courbet, Eugène Boudin and Claude Monet.

Later, some explored the dramatic events that occurred on Omaha Beach. Visiting the monuments and reflecting on the sacrifices made during the first attempted raid in Operation Aquatint and the massive Allied invasion of 1944 was a sobering experience. A visit to the Normandy American Cemetery, with its rows of white crosses, brought home the tragic loss of so many young lives.

Others had the pleasure of joining a culinary adventure through the picturesque countryside. We first stopped at a traditional cidery and distillery, learning about the process of making calvados and cider. We then visited a working farm for a delicious Norman feast of local cheeses, meats and apple tart. To cap off the day, we met the dairy herd and observed the fascinating process of cheesemaking.

An excursion to Palais Benedictine and the Cliffs of Étretat instead took us through the lush Norman countryside, where we learned about the origins of Impressionism and the inspiration it drew from these dramatic cliffs. As we drove, we discovered the interesting differences between Holstein and Norman cows, each producing milk with distinct characteristics. After a walk along the promenade, we had a lunch of freshly caught monkfish. Later, at neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance Palais Bénédictine, we discovered the history of the herbal liqueur and explored its modern-day production.

This evening, after recapping the day, we got a glimpse into tomorrow’s exciting adventures in Brittany.

September 23, 2024 | Saint-Malo

A blanket of low clouds shrouded the picturesque scenery as we arrived in the historic harbor of Saint-Malo, Brittany.

Our excursion to Cap Frehel and Fort La Latte revealed a fairytale-esque castle perched atop a dramatic cliff, followed by a meal many of us declared the best we’d had in years.

Meanwhile, those who journeyed to Cancale and Saint-Malo took a picturesque drive through narrow streets, arriving in the charming coastal town of Cancale. We explored its quaint shops, sampling famous local oysters and visiting biscuit factory Le Marché du Biscuit to learn its fascinating history from one of the owners, grateful for a to-go box of its delicious creations. After lunch in the fortified town of Saint-Malo, with views of the city, we took a guided tour for an in-depth look at its intriguing history.

Others explored the Brittany Coast, featuring a beautiful drive toward Dinan. Upon arrival, we set out on a walking tour through the charming town, strolling along the cobbled main street and admiring historic half-timbered houses. Pausing for lunch at a creperie, we then visited an oyster farm to learn about oyster production. For an extra-special touch, we then sampled the bivalves alongside glasses of Champagne.

The rest of us journeyed to Le Ferme St Michel, where we had a local lunch before heading to the impressive abbey perched atop a massive granite outcrop. As we climbed the cobbled streets and narrow alleys, our knowledgeable guides brought our surroundings to life.

Back aboard, we attended an enriching pre-dinner talk about the Normandy landings.

September 24, 2024 | At Sea, Bound for Bordeaux, France

It was a relaxing day at sea with warming weather, and our Captain graciously allowed us to visit the bridge during the morning. We also had a few inspiring discussions this morning, the first of which was an introduction to photography by our talented onboard photo coach. That was complemented by a late-morning presentation on the diversity of France, a country of 246 cheeses.

With the sun shining, it was tempting to eat outside at lunchtime, spend time on the deck or curl up with a book in the lounge.

For those interested in learning more, we heard a sobering tale of the Battle of the Somme. We then changed gears with cocktails on the pool deck, accompanied by pata negra ham.

As we continued our adventure toward Grattequina in the Bordeaux region, we exchanged excitement about the journey ahead.

September 25, 2024 | Bordeaux, France

Following a tranquil day at sea, we arrived at the picturesque riverside port of Grattequina, the gateway to Bordeaux.

Wine enthusiasts headed straight for the Bordeaux wine region, home to over 100,000 vineyards producing world-class wines with a distinctly earthy aroma. We explored two prestigious Bordeaux estates, Château Ferrière and Château Kirwan, where we toured the vineyards; learned about winemaking techniques; and enjoyed exclusive access to the facilities. Expertly curated tastings allowed us to savor the region’s finest wines. Afterward, we strolled through the estate gardens and purchased bottles for future enjoyment.

Those who began in the historic center of Bordeaux — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — admired the city’s picturesque waterfront, lined with pale limestone buildings from the 18th century. After a stop at Place de la Comédie, we wandered through the city’s charming streets, marveling at the architectural grandeur of public buildings, including Saint Andrew Cathedral from the Romanesque era. Our journey concluded with a visit to the Bassins des Lumières, a WWII submarine base that was transformed into a digital art gallery. We were mesmerized by the immersive light show featuring the works of Mondrian, Vermeer, Rembrandt and Van Gogh.

A small group of us instead ventured to the coast for an unforgettable oyster experience in Arcachon. Setting sail on a pinnace, we glided through the lagoon. Passing the submerged oyster beds, we raised a toast with Champagne. While gazing at picturesque Cape Ferret in the distance, we then tasted raw, just-plucked oysters spurted with lemon.

Others explored the charming Bordeaux’s old quarter, admiring its architecture before continuing to Cité du Vin, a museum and cultural center dedicated to the global heritage of wine. This immersive experience highlighted its rich history and culminated in — to our delight — a glass of wine on the rooftop terrace.

Returning to our ship, we continued our journey, enjoying an afternoon of enlightening presentations. Our photo coach shared tips on capturing award-winning images, while our natural history expert discussed the wonderful, weird world of avian sounds.

At the day’s end, our Captain delivered a humorous forecast of the upcoming days and we proceeded to Bilbao, Spain.

September 26, 2024 | Bilbao, Spain

Despite the heavy rain that greeted us in Spain, we pressed on with our planned excursions.

During our visit to Bermeo, we traversed the quaint cobblestone streets of its old town, passing landmarks like the Franciscan Church and Cloisters, the 18th-century Town Hall and the neoclassical Church of Santa Maria. Bermeo is renowned for its sizable fishing fleet, which operates amid fishing grounds off the Azores and Southern Africa. After some free time to explore, we took in views from Mundaka before returning to our ship.

Others crossed the river from the port to admire the impressive opera house, walking through narrow, winding streets; taking in the historic castle and Gothic Santiago Cathedral; and stopping in local shops for souveniers. In the bustling main square, we stopped for a well-deserved coffee break.

Needless to say, the titanium-clad Guggenheim Museum was a highlight for many of us. Housing an impressive collection of modern and contemporary art, its permanent and temporary exhibits showcase renowned Spanish and international artists. We spent a fascinating half-day exploring the building’s extraordinary architecture and marveling at the thought-provoking sculptures and artwork on display.

After a stimulating morning ashore, we all returned to ‘Le Dumont d'Urville’ for a relaxing afternoon at sea. We attended an insightful talk on Don Quixote and the Camino, as well as an enlightening discussion about the people of the Basque region.

Continuing westward along the Spanish coast, we proceeded to A Coruña.

September 27, 2024 | A Caruña, Spain

After disembarking in the Galician port city of A Caruña, some of us explored the city's historic old quarter. As we toured the cathedral museum and cloisters, we learned about the biblical apostle St. James and his journey to preach the gospel here. His final resting place has drawn pilgrims from around the world for centuries. Witnessing the thousands of people who walk hundreds of miles across France and Spain to reach this sacred site was a truly inspiring experience. Their triumphant arrival in the cathedral square was filled with personal reflection and adventure.

Others ventured to the Tower of Hercules, the oldest known Roman lighthouse, built in the first century. After appreciating the coastal views, we had lunch at a Michelin-starred restaurant at the old military base overlooking the city. After a drive along the coast, we reached Ézaro Falls, which plummets directly into the sea. Our final stop — the active Cape Finisterre Lighthouse —was unforgettable. Perched at the westernmost point of the Camino de Santiago, the Romans once believed it was the end of the known world (hence “finis terre”).

Our culinary adventure at the Mercado de Abastos was a sensory delight. Despite a brief morning shower, the sun quickly emerged, illuminating the bustling market with a warm glow. Strolling through the stalls, we were overwhelmed by a vibrant kaleidoscope of colors and aromas. There, we sampled plump squid, tender octopus and juicy scallops, along with an equally tempting array of lamb, veal and chorizo. To cap off our market exploration, we tried a selection of local cheeses, each one distinct.

With a bit of room to spare, we continued to a Michelin-recommended restaurant for shrimp tapas, creamy scallops and crispy croquettes paired with local wine. Next came a sampling of squid pie encased in a flaky crust; sizzling grilled pork skewers; and decadent cheesecake. As the afternoon wore on, some explored the charming town. Others took a guided tour of Santiago de Compostela Cathedral, immersing themselves in its rich history and architectural beauty.

Those who began in Santiago de Compostela heard tales of pilgrims and learned the significance of St. James' mausoleum. After an hour of strolling the pilgrims' ways, we paused for lunch at a former monastery — now a luxurious hotel — savoring our meal in the serene surroundings. Refreshed and rejuvenated, we set off on the final leg of the Camino, a dynamic path that wound along boardwalks, paved roads, gravel paths and cobblestone streets.

Our day concluded at the stunning Parador Costa da Morte, perched atop a cliff overlooking the rugged coastline. The view was breathtaking, and the gentle lapping of the waves provided a soothing soundtrack. Stepping inside, we enjoyed a lively performance of traditional Galician music and dance, followed by a local dinner. As the sun began to set, we returned to our ship.

Tonight, we set sail for Porto, Portugal.

September 28, 2024 | Porto, Portugal

Portugal's second-largest city — nestled along the picturesque Douro River — welcomed us with open arms.

Oenophiles took a scenic drive along the river, winding through picturesque vineyards. The road took a thrilling turn as we ascended a steep switchback for views of the surrounding landscape. Arriving at a local winery, we took a guided tour, seeing both the grape delivery and the underground cellars where some of the world's finest port wine is aged. A tasting session followed, introducing us to a variety of styles. We then sat down to a relaxing outdoor lunch paired with local wine. Having soaked up the idyllic setting, we retraced our route through the countryside.

Others took in the city's skyline, the majestic river and its numerous bridges. We strolled through the charming old quarter, visiting the historic Church of Saint Francis. Its unassuming exterior belied the opulent interior, adorned with an astonishing 1,764 pounds of decorative gold leaf. We were equally captivated by the Palácio da Bolsa, a stunning example of 19th-century Neoclassical architecture with glass domes, ceiling windows and grand staircases. Interestingly, one of the palace's rooms was once the office of Gustave Eiffel, the architect behind the Eiffel Tower. After exploring the city's hidden gems, we enjoyed some leisure time, browsing the shops and stopping for coffee at a local café. We then regrouped over lunch, followed by an informative tour of Taylor's Port, which revealed the intricate process of producing and aging port wine.

Those who started in Braga stopped at a cozy café for coffee and pastries before exploring the town’s quaint, tile-fronted shops, serene park and gushing fountains. We visited the magnificent cathedral, marveling at the intricate baroque carvings and vibrant painted ceilings that adorned its cloisters. We then paused at a restaurant with panoramic vistas, enjoying our lunch paired with Vinh Verde. After our meal, we ascended the steps to the Sanctuary of Bom Jesus do Monte, a Baroque Catholic shrine and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Serendipitously, an ethereal choir was rehearsing. The descent was a thrilling experience as we glided down by funicular.

Food enthusiasts went to an old-school tavern in Porto’s historic heart. Sitting down, we were presented with a local dark brown bread topped with ham and deep-fried sardines paired with fizzy, acidic local wine. We then explored a nearby market, filled with a vibrant display of fresh produce, cured meats, cheeses and — to our surprise — an impressive selection of cod. Our second stop was a family-owned, generations-old restaurant for a hearty bowl of caldo verde; bifana, a spicy pulled-pork sandwich; and a Tango, local beer and cranberry juice. Next up was a francesinha. A Portuguese take on the Croque Monsieur, it’s served in a rich tomato and beer-based sauce. We then took a short walk to digest our meal, taking in the impressive city hall, bustling main railway station and neighborhood teeming with galleries, restaurants and bars. Our final indulgence was sardine and cod croquettes with tomato soup and crisp white wine.

Returning to ‘Le Dumont d’Urville’ in the mid-afternoon, we attended an enlightening talk about Portugal. Later, our onboard musician performed a classical piano recital.

Overnight, we’ll sail toward Portugal's vibrant capital, the last leg of our journey.

September 29, 2024 | Lisbon

Arriving in Lisbon, some of our group crossed the Tagus River via the eight-mile-long Vasco da Gama Bridge, the longest in Europe. As we approached Évora, we were greeted by a landscape of shallow salt pans dotted with pink flamingos. Our journey continued through rolling hills, cork oak forests and occasional vineyards. Upon reaching the walled city of Évora, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, we wandered through the narrow streets. A visit to the extraordinary Chapel of Bones was a haunting yet fascinating experience, and the Roman temple offered a glimpse into Évora's ancient past. After a local lunch, we explored the city further, discovering quaint craft shops along the way.

Those with creative leanings started at the National Tile Museum, where we tried our hand at tile painting. Once fired, our masterpieces will be mailed to us. After a guided tour of the museum itself, we took a panoramic tour of Lisbon, exploring the historic Belém district.

Others strolled through the picturesque Praça do Comércio, stopping for lunch of bacalhau (salt cod) at an authentic Portuguese cantina. We then ventured into the historic Belém district, where we visited the National Coach Museum, housing the world's largest collection of carriages; the Jerónimos Monastery; and Belém Tower.

Still others visited Roman Catholic Lisbon Cathedral, strolled along the picturesque riverside Praça do Comércio and admired the intricate mosaic tiles of Rossio Square. In Praça dos Restauradores, we soaked up the lively energy of the city, people-watching and observing daily life.

The rest of us took a scenic drive to Sintra. At the National Palace of Sintra, we toured its opulent halls and chambers. The best-preserved medieval royal residence in Portugal, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We continued to the town of Cascais for a fresh seafood feast. With time to spare, we browsed the local shops. Our return was equally scenic as we drove through lush pine forests and along the coastline, dotted with sandy beaches and elegant residences.

Back aboard ‘Le Dumont d'Urville,’ we gathered for a caviar tasting. Then, we watched a photographic review of our voyage and attended our Captain’s farewell cocktail party and gala dinner. In the morning, we will say farewell to our newfound friends.


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